Kappo Muroi

Kappo Muroi (割烹 室井)

⭐⭐⭐⭐

🇯🇵 Kaiseki / 📍 Nishi-Azabu

📓 Visits: 1

Kappo Muroi is a new restaurant in Nishi-Azabu run by chef Go Muroi who previously worked at Yamazaki.  But until recently, if you Googled for "Kappo Muroi", rather confusingly the first hit would be a restaurant in Shimbashi that's closed.  The name is not a co-incidence.  Go Muroi also worked there from 2011 to 2015 under his father, Masao Muroi.  Then after 3 years at Kyo Kaiseki Kichisen, 3 years at Ryugin and 2 years at Yamazaki, Kappo Muroi has re-emerged, this time with Go Muroi in charge and his father working under him.  To add to the confusion Azabu Muroi from ex Kimoto sous chef Daisuke Muroi opened just a week later.  Azabu Muroi was never in "Azabu", it was located in Mita.  Due to land redevelopment it's now moved to Ginza but such is the pretension of the chef the name hasn't changed.  Perhaps, one day, the restaurant might actually move to "Azabu".  Stlll here?  Omakase at Kappo Muroi is JPY 39,600 + 10% service.

If you were hoping this is the next Yamazaki then you're going to be very disappointed.  My expectations were far more moderate.  The food is much more traditional and less creative.  The best dishes in the meal were probably the nodoguro, the Ise ebi, and the renkon.  The least impressive dishes were probably the owan and the first rice dish.  The edamame tofu and kinmedai were delicious but the soup was weak in flavour.  As for the rice, I'm yet to eat awabi risotto that smacks you round the lips with umami.  The second rice dish was probably better: shiro gohan with various toppings, all delicious but ultimately forgettable.  So the nodoguro, Ise ebi and renkon I rated 9-9.5/10, all other dishes 8.5.  Now 8.5/10 is good but at 40k it's not really good enough.  There's no shortage of expensive ingredients, portions are a good size and there were no real faults but there wasn't enough 'wow'.  The sakizuke is where the chef can really put his own stamp on a meal.  The dish was packed with hotate but unless I'd been told the jelly was made with suppon dashi I'd have never guessed.  Momo shirae is a dish where there's nowhere to hide.  It was fine, but I've had better peaches.

Tea and water are charged at JPY 1,200 a glass and JPY 1,000 a bottle, respectively, and those are your only choices of non-alcoholic drink.  The wine list is exclusively Champagnes and Burgundys.  There was gentle pushing from staff to order more drinks.

I was in a group of three and we were given one bento as we left so there was a fight at end about who got to take it home (I lost).  It seemed like other groups were given enough bentos that they didn't have to share.

Along with his father he has two other assistants but Go Muroi does all the cooking and plating so he doesn't stop to chat during the course, which takes in excess of three hours.  At the end of the meal Go Muroi introduced himself to new diners but didn't linger.  Muroi Senior didn't say a word to our group in the entire meal.  I visited the original Kappo Muroi in 2014 and both Murois were friendly, and I thought Go Muroi had a reputation for fun, but not this time.  My companions were Japanese and the host was known to the chef (second visit and a Yamazaki regular) so the lack of warmth wasn't down to the usual prejudices.

Kappo Muroi held a Michelin Star from the inaugural Tokyo Guide until it was dropped in the 2015 Guide.  I have no doubt this restaurant will be a success and will be at least a moderately difficult reservation.

📌 https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1307/A130701/13286652/ 

❓ My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.2

📱 Booking: 🟧 Omakase or phone (more seats available).  For now, one rotation per night starting at 6pm.  Muroi-san can speak English.

📍 Location: 

2-16-4 Nishi-Azabu.  7 mins on foot North-West from Nishi-Azabu crossing.
Map data ©2023 Google

📅 Visit September 2023

Suppon nikogori, hotate, shiro zuiki, uni
Tachiuo tempura imushi, caviar, shin ginnan
Owan: chamame tofu, amadai
Otsukuri: Ise ebi
Nodoguro, yaki nasu
Momo, shirae
Renkon moichi, hamo dashi
Suppon sumiyaki
Awabi risotto
Shiro gohan, tororo katsuoboshi, shigureni
Gyunyu ice, salt, kuromitsu
Tea

💴 Damage: 43,560 (39600 + 10%, host paid for drinks)
⏱️ Time taken: 3h10m