Yuina

⚠️ Unfortunately the tonkatsu lunch is no longer available.

Yuina (銀座 結絆)

⭐⭐⭐⭐

🐷 Tonkatsu / 📍 Ginza

 đŸ““ Visits: 2


What's the best tonkatsu restaurant in Tokyo?  It's easier to answer what the best tonkatsu in Japan is and that's Tonkatsu Manger.  It's just tonkatsu right?  How good can it be?  I was sceptical that this was going to be that special but it really was a level above any tonkatsu I've ever had.  Located in a suburb of Osaka it's not convenient but it's definitely worth making the trip if you can.

In Tokyo there are a few at the top. 

Narikura is the one everyone goes mad for but it's very expensive, the hospitality was terrible when I went and I didn't enjoy the soggy layer of batter surrounding the meat.  Did they recently change the system so you can only order a choice of two 70g cuts for JPY 5,000?  Not much danger of me going back there. 

Sharikimon Chanwabu is very good but isn't quite as good value since the price rise in October 2020. 

Tonta has the lightest panko I've had anywhere in Tokyo and the toku hire has excellent flavour.  The downside is that they are only open for two and a half hours four times a week and you can't book so whenever you go you'll have to queue.  If you've never been I'd strongly recommend a visit.  The couple running the restaurant are elderly so it's not going to be around forever. 

Setagaya Tonkatsu Soshigaya 7-chome Shokudo is a ramen shop by day but for a few months in 2021 moonlighted as a tonkatsu restaurant one night per week.  I went once and it was one of the best tonkatsu I'd had in Tokyo.  I've been waiting to go back but they seem to be on hiatus now.

There are lots of others to choose from and a lot of it comes down to personal preference.  My favourite in Tokyo is Katsuhei.  The tonkatsu there is just JPY 1,100 - 1,200, a fraction of what you'll pay at more highly-rated places.  See my full review here.

For a different opinion and a longer and more detailed read, check out Eric Yu's outstanding write-up here.

Yuina is actually a kaiseki restaurant but since summer 2021 they also been serving tonkatsu at lunch.

The pork is the fabled Tokyo-X.  250g of rosu is JPY 3,800 with each additional 50g costing 500 yen.  On both my visits I ordered 300g.  Prices are inclusive.

The pork is first lightly heated high over charcoal for around 10 minutes before being smoked with wood chips.  It's next fried at low temperature in oil made from Tokyo-X backfat for 10 minutes and probed until almost cooked through.  The final cook is for around 5 minutes at high temperature to crisp up the panko and then the meat is rested for 5 minutes.

While you're waiting for that you get a couple of appetizers.  Three, very good fruit tomatoes to start and then a potato kuri norimaki (Visit 1) or a warm truffled mash, egg yolk and crispy bacon on Visit 2 (as good as it sounds).

The first bite of a really juicy tonkatsu is like the first bite of a really juicy peach.  On my first visit the pork didn't have the deep flavour I'd expect from Tokyo-X but had better flavour on my second visit, though still didn't have that peach eating-like quality.   The panko has a similar texture to what you'd get with kushiage but a much better flavour.  Overall, it's exceptional.  The smoke really adds another dimension of flavour.

You might not be eating kaiseki but you're in a quality kaiseki restaurant.  A fresh pot of rice is made for each diner and is outstanding.  (The same rice is used whether you're here for a full course or just the tonkatsu.)  And everything else is made with the same care: high quality, finely-shredded cabbage with flecks of shiso; homemade sauces for the cabbage and katsu (this being particularly good); rich akadashi (made to order and checked by the head chef) with a huge piece of tofu; freshly grated wasabi.

The general wasn't in attendance on visit 2 and while this did not affect the food, hospitality wasn't as I expected.  I wasn't greeted properly nor seen to the door and I didn't appreciate having to keep my bag, coat and umbrella under the counter.  If I was at Tonkatsu Wako or something I wouldn't complain but this is Ginza and service needs to fit the surroundings and food being served.  The general and head chef on visit 2 were personable.  Although they have an English version of their website no English was spoken on either of my visits.

Is it the best tonkatsu in Tokyo?  It's certainly one of the best, convenient and excellent value.

📌 https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1301/A130101/13240349/ 

❓ My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.2

📱 Booking: 🟩 Reservations are required and easy. Book at least a day, preferably a week in advance.  Bookings either by phone, Tabelog or TableCheck.

📍 Location: 

6F HULIC&New GINZA7, Ginza 7-3-8.  4 mins South-West from the C2 or C3 (Tokyu Plaza Ginza) Exit, Ginza station.  6F multi-tenant building.  The 'HULIC' building is just before the 'HULIC&New' and is not the one you want.
Map data ©2021 Google

📅 Visit April 2022

💴 Damage: 4,300 (3800 + 50g @ 500)
⏱️ Time taken: 55m

📅 Visit December 2021

💴 Damage: 4,300 (3800 + 50g @ 500)
⏱️ Time taken: 1h

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