Arakicho Kintsugi (荒木町 きんつぎ)
⭐⭐⭐⭐
🥢 Kappo / 📍 Arakicho
📓 Visits: 4 (2020-2021)
Handsome frontman Masanori Sato and co-chef Tokuyasu Kitamura opened Arakicho Kintsugi in July 2018. Masanori-san previously worked at Potsura Potsura and Yuu while Kitamura-san previously worked at Higurashi. The young staff, large L-shaped counter and basement location create a cool atmosphere. Masanori-san can speak a few words of English and makes a little conversation. Two courses are offered at 5,800 JPY or 7,800 JPY plus tax with no service charge taken. On all my visits I chose the cheaper course. The restaurant can be drafty in winter so you'll want to sit away from the entrance if you get cold.
Portions are smaller than in kaiseki restaurants and you won't walk away feeling stuffed. If you look at the descriptions below you might think you're getting a 14-course meal but each of the 7-or-so appetizers are tiny and could be served together as a hassun, which is indeed how they are served if you eat in one of the private rooms. That said, the food is simply, excellent. At this price, you're not going to be served the most expensive ingredients but the cooking, quality and freshness of ingredients is to the level of a very good kaiseki restaurant. Highlights from my most recent meal were the saba zushi and sashimi and the foie gras and kumquat chawanmushi, a dish that wouldn't have been out of place in a 1-Michelin star restaurant. The final dish is takikomi gohan (rice with toppings). I really like the fact that they still serve rice as the final dish and go to the trouble of making seasonal takikomi gohan. So many cheaper Japanese restaurants will either only serve soba as the final dish, which is easier for the kitchen, or just plain white rice which is just boring and a waste of dining-out calories. The rice is cooked as a single individual portion so you can't ask for a second bowl like you usually can in kaiseki restaurants but when you book you can ask for your rice oomori, which is what I did on my last visit, and you'll get a very large portion.
The main problem with Arakicho Kintsugi is the uneven pace of the meal. Timings from my 4 visits to date are 1h20m, 1h55m, 1h25m and most recently 2h. On my third visit I was prepared to wait and indeed service was slow to start with - I had about four mouthfuls in the first 30 minutes - but after that things picked up. I had thought the 1h55m meal was a blip that had been rectified by them taking on another member of staff (another handsome, young chef!). But on my most recent, fourth visit, the appetizers were served quickly but then there gaps between the main dishes. I think this is partly due to them timing things so they could serve the same dish at the same time to more than one group but as each course is so small the pauses feel more pronounced.
The length of the meal is my only criticism of Arakicho Kintsugi. If you're not eating alone it might not be something you'd notice.
After some recent, disappointing experiences at 20k and 30k kaiseki restaurants I'm being a lot more picky about expensive meals. The food here has been consistently excellent across my four visits. Arakicho Kintsugi remains my favourite Japanese restaurant right now. I haven't found anywhere serving food as good as this at this price and I've nudged my score up a little accordingly.
https://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1309/A130903/13224173/
❓ My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.35
📱 Booking: 🟩 Easy. Same day or next day by phone is possible. A few words of English spoken. Children are accepted in the private room.
📍 Location:
B1F 3-3-6 Yotsuya. 2 minutes from Yotsuya-sanchome station Exit 4. B1F multi-tenant building. The restaurant is not accessible by stairs and you must take the lift.
Map data ©2021 Google
📅 Visit February 2021
Dashi; Nanohana, kuragge, citrus, miso; hotaru ika, takenoko, wakame; Shin tama negi soup, kani; Saba zushi; Hotate shumai; Foie gras chawanmushi, kinan; Sawara sashimi; Shiro ebi; Akami zuke; Kinmedai yakimono; Pork 'samosa'; Boiled chicken, daikon; Kinmedai, ikura, renkon gohan
💴 Damage: 9,400 (5,800 + 1,000 large rice + 2 drinks at 1,800 + tax)
⏱️ Time taken: 2h
📅 Visit December 2020
Dashi; Maitake, shungiku; Sanma, nasu sauce; Sabazushi; Taco shumai; Inoshishi boiled; Ichigo, yonashi, mascarpone; Kai; Katsuo; Ankimo; Tara shirako; Sawara fry; Boiled Kyoto jidori chicken, kabu; Shake, ikura gohan
💴 Damage: 7,700 inc. 1 drink and tap water
⏱️ Time taken: 1h25m
📅 Visit August 2020
Dashi; Chirashi, seasonal greens; Zuchini, cauliflower fry; Anago sushi; Hammo, marrow; Ayu, goya; Saba sashimi; Pork, takenoko, fig spring roll; Shiro ebi; Uni; Kegani gyoza; Kamasu shiroyaki; Braised pork, shitake; Ayu, corn, ikura gohan
💴 Damage: 8,500 inc. 3 drinks and tap water
⏱️ Time taken: 1h55m
📅 Visit March 2020
Dashi; Firefly squid, vinegar jelly, seasonal greens; Anago sushi; Grilled white asparagus; Steamed oyster; Salad; Chawanmushi; Elvers; Uni; Shiro ebi; Hamaguri soup; Kuromutsu agemono; Simmered chicken, takenoko; Asari clam, ikura gohan
💴 Damage: 7,800 inc. 2-3 drinks and tap water
⏱️ Time taken: 1h20m
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